I was in sore need of a new watchband recently, which is one of the reasons that I was glad to see Nick Gabarro. I should say more glad than usual, we like Nick, and try not to appear too self-serving when possible… Metal bracelets on watches, while arguably dressier for some, have never been a preference of mine. They can be clunky, noisy, and potentially destructive to cuffs and keyboards alike.
From the latest issue of SENSE Magazine – “The Text in Visvim: Part 2 – Focused on Horween Leather”
From the July/August 2009 SATRA Bulletin, by Lynne Brent.
The densest read of the day - click to download the .pdf
From time to time we’ll put together an order of small leather goods. For this latest round, we sent a a handful of leathers down to Jason at Makr. I’ve been carrying the “flap wallet” for a while now, and I really like it – although it did take some getting used to. It’s slim and secure and different, so let the Costanza wallet go. We have a select few available for purchase, details can be found at the end of this post.
Counter-clockwise from the top left: Natural Essex, Brandy Shell, Dark Brown Shell, Color #4 Shell, Green Shell, Navy Shell, Black Shell, and Tan Chromexcel.
I recently received a belt from Jim, “The Beltman.” I have to say, it’s really stiff, but really well made. This particular model is made from our natural horsehide strips – a fully vegetable tanned product. The leather is hand-stained and stitched in the US in Apex, North Carolina, and after just one full day of wear I can already tell it’s going to break-in and soften beautifully.
Tan Horsehide Belt with a Round Powder-Coated Black Buckle
From Ryan Plett
Well Worn: Arnold Horween Sr.’s Briefcase
Every time I enter the Horween Leather Company here in Chicago, I’m always excited to stumble upon some sort of nostalgic leather item and an accompanying story. The place reeks of classic woodwork, Americana, and obvious superior quality leathers.
Two weeks (the next two weeks) out of every year we essentially stop all of our production. During “shutdown” we do everything we can to catch up in regards to maintenance. Machines that are usually running are serviced and checked without interfering with the processing of leather. The building is old, really old, so this is an important time for us. Horween Leather Company, which was I. Horween & Co. before that, has been in this building at 2015 N. Elston Avenue since 1920 (from 1905 – 1919 we were located on Division), and before that there was a different tannery here. We’ve seen some significant changes over the years, including the extension of Elston Avenue. Before Elston occupied it’s current path the building was rectangular, as one would expect. I’m not sure exactly how much of the building was cut away for the street, but you can get an idea from the map linked just above.
Inside boiler number 2 - claustrophobics stay away.
I recently received an email asking why there are no straight razor leather sharpening strops being made in the US anymore. I think the answer is because no one uses straight razors anymore? What the email enlightened me to is the fact that straight razors are enjoying a bit of a resurgence. And there still is at least one honing strap still made here. I’ll admit to only ever getting a straight razor shave from the barber, but I did go digging through the leather goods archives here and turned up some old strops. After all, Horween Leather used to do their primary cordovan business for the making razor strops. Clearly, the invention by good ol’ Mr. Gillette didn’t do a lot to help that business.
Two razor strops that belonged to my great grandfather - they feature two different sides for sharpening and honing.
The last post featured a picture of some old longwings that generated a fair amount of questions regarding patina, polishing, and the general care of Shell Cordovan. Maybe I should say re-generated, as we do get a fair amount of inquiries on the subject. In response, this will be the first in (at least) a three part series addressing these topics (and we’ll get on to something other than just shoes in the future – so if shoes aren’t your thing don’t give up on us).
Someone had recently asked if there was “a way to make shoes patina faster?
They both started as the same color...
On a recent trip to New York City, I made sure to leave enough time to stop by the Alden Shoe Store on Madison Avenue (@44th street). I get so used to seeing the raw material on a daily basis that it’s really great to see a room full of finished product from time to time. With burgundy, the loafer, and hand-sewn deck shoes enjoying a revival, the store on Madison is a viable option for choices of all three. They also had a nice stock of some of the browns and lighter colors – whiskey, cigar, and ravello.
The Alden Shoe Shop of New York
A few of the choices available in whiskey shell cordovan.
