Boondockers

During the the first half of the 1940’s our factory was busy doing what many factories in the U.S. were doing – supplying goods and materials for use by our troops.  For us, that quite obviously meant leather.  We supplied two main leather types during this time; Mechanical leather and Chromexcel.

Mechanical leather is a specialized, dense, and extremely durable tannage utilized to make hydraulic and pneumatic seals and packings.  C.W. Marsh is one of our oldest customers, and we supplied them (and other manufacturers) with leather that was used for many applications, including vehicles.  While “leather is better,” this industry has largely moved into the realm of synthetics.

Photo by Ralph Morse – Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images

Bench-Made Boots

Chromexcel®

Chromexcel.  One of my favorites, and probably my single favorite if I had to choose one.  The picture above gives some idea of how long the formula has been around (and this journal is full of different trials and doesn’t even contain the original, standardized recipe).  Whether because it’s right, or because we’re just terribly stubborn, we’ve left the processes and formulas for many of our leathers largely unchanged.  We have had to substitute some of the components that were traditionally used in small quantities – whale oil was replaced with another marine-creature derived oil, one that’s more available and not controversial.

Made in Maine

We recently visited Rancourt and Company in Lewiston – I snapped a few photos to show just how much skill and time it takes to make great handsewn shoes.

Cavalier Chromexcel

By request, an informative post regarding Chromexcel is forthcoming.  As a lead in, an introduction – Cavalier Chromexcel (and, yes, we make it in browns and black as well).  Check back in the coming weeks for a more comprehensive posting.  For comparison, the green loafer is our shell cordovan.

Not So Plain (Toe Blucher)

We made a trip down to the Chicago Collective today – there was lots worth seeing (and plenty not worth seeing…).  We spent some time talking with Floyd, Barry, and Bob of Alden Shoe.

Alden PTB in Natural Chromexcel

The Leather that has 3 Names

One of my favorite leathers, that sees relatively little production, is an article that we call Huntsman – or Waxed Flesh or French Waxed Calf.  I would define it as high performance suede, but it’s not suede at all.  This leather is made almost exactly the same way as our Chromexcel, instead we finish it on the flesh (or suede side).  This colors, waxes, seals, and lays the nap of the flesh flat.